Its roughly the same size as the pre-drilled holes in the rail, and it gives us a little wiggle room for fine tuning later. I used a 7/16" drill bit for all the holes. I used a couple of blocks of wood to elevate the rail off the table and referenced the bottom of the rail against the fence (see the first pic for clarification). I actually drilled into the back of the rail since that's where my marks were made. Its just a piece of aluminum angle that pivots on a bolt on one end and is secured by a c-clamp on the other. To simplify things at the drill press, I set up my makeshift fence. Once I was confident that everything was marked correctly, I disassembled the front rail & guide tub and headed for the drill press. I just crouched down beneath the saw table and marked through the existing holes in the table top. Once the fence was where I wanted it, I used a Sharpie marker to mark the drilling locations. If your fence is riding too high, they will actually be above the level of the table top and will interfere with your work piece. Note: Another thing to look out for are the little nylon adjusting screws on either side of the fence. That gave me just enough room to drill, and the fence rides a mere 1/16" over the table. I used a combination square to make sure that this measurement was constant across the entire length of the rail. On my saw, 13/16" from the top of the saw table to the top of the rail was the butter zone. Take your time and find a good equilibrium. If you position it too low, you'll have to drill too close to the edge of the rail. If you position the rail too high, the fence will ride really high over the table. I would occasionally clamp the front rail in place and pop the fence on to check it for clearance over the table top. I then used a combination of scrap wood and paper to shim it up to where I wanted it. I lined up the line I drew on the front rail with the line I just marked on the table. I just propped the whole front rail assembly up on a saw horse and slid it up to the front of the saw table. First, we need to get the front rail/guide tube into position. I chose the latter simply because I can't get my table saw onto my drill press. Or, you can use the pre-existing holes in the table and drill the front rail. You can use the pre-existing holes in the front rail and drill new holes in the saw table. There are a couple different ways to go about making this fence fit. Note: The fence's sight is adjustable a few millimeters from side to side, so you have a small margin for error in this step. Now we have all the guides we need to line the scale up properly. Using a larger square, extend the pencil mark all the way across the top of the table, and then down the back of the table. Now, using a small square, extend that pencil mark up the front of the table. Remove the fence and front rail and set them aside. Now transfer the pencil mark from the front rail to the front of your saw table. Use a couple small clamps to make sure that the front rail is fairly level and that everything is secure. Also make sure that the front rail is firmly against the front of the saw. Lay the fence on the table and slide it firmly against the saw blade.
#IMPROVE AN OLD CRAFTSMAN TABLE SAW FULL#
Raise the blade up to full height.you did unplug your saw, right? Of course you did. Line up the sight on the fence with the zero line on the guide tube and lock it down. Now go ahead and pop the fence onto the front rail/guide tube assembly. Now, butt the back rail up to the front rail and transfer the mark. Using your square against the front edge of the guide tube, find the "Zero" line and transfer a pencil mark to the front rail. Go ahead and attach the guide tube to the front rail. The fence's guide tube has an integrated measuring tape, so you have to take care to make sure that it lines up properly.
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